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New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023 Highlights
Hello Design Land readers,
New York Fashion Week has just ended, and we have compiled a list of our favorite moments straight from the catwalk. Here’s our highlights!
Thom Browne
This season, Thom Browne plays around with volume, inverted triangle silhouettes and strong shoulders. Deconstructed meets tailored suits is the running theme, layered suiting and shirting, stripes on stripes and textured materials dominate the collection.
CREDIT: ARTURO HOLMES/GETTY IMAGES
CREDIT: ARTURO HOLMES/GETTY IMAGES
Christian Siriano
This season’s Christian Soriano features old Hollywood glamour, with gloriously feminine styles that play on volume placement, with textured, sheer, gathered and layered folds of fabric, as well as 3D and sequined embroideries on sheer slips.
CREDIT: JP YIM/GETTY IMAGES
CREDIT: JP YIM/GETTY IMAGES
Jason Wu
Jason Wu Fall/Winter 2023 showed a series of dresses in various materials, soft and elegant sheer slips, some with embroidered sequins, others in full length fringe, layered sheer, light ruffles and soft draped folds that fall on the body.
CREDIT: JP YIM/GETTY IMAGES
CREDIT: JP YIM/GETTY IMAGES
Rodarte
In a captivating lineup of heavily Victorian inspired styles, Rodarte tells a fantasy story of knights, royalty, witches and elves. Featuring black velvet and satin bias-cut dresses, corseted looks, beaded fringe dresses, oversized sleeves that sweep the floor and body covering mesh veils, this collection is truly magical.
CREDIT: FERNANDA CALFAT/GETTY IMAGES
CREDIT: FERNANDA CALFAT/GETTY IMAGES
CREDIT: FERNANDA CALFAT/GETTY IMAGES
House of Aama
House of Aama brings a collection inspired by African and Caribbean folklore, picking up influences from important fashion moments of the decades of ‘20s and ‘90s. From printed demi-sheer slips with gradient and color-block details, to ruffled, bustier dresses in bright colors, this lineup offers a great variety of styles.
CREDIT: IMAXTREE
CREDIT: IMAXTREE
CREDIT: IMAXTREE
CREDIT: IMAXTREE
Sergio Hudson
An ode to the ‘90s! Sergio Hudson pulls out inspiration directly from the ‘90s, featuring layered mini slip dresses, plaid jackets with emphasis on shoulders, shorts on sheer tights, and lots of neon and bright colors.
CREDIT: SONNY VANDEVELDE/SONNY PHOTOS/COURTESY OF SERGIO HUDSON
CREDIT: SONNY VANDEVELDE/SONNY PHOTOS/COURTESY OF SERGIO HUDSON
Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera showed a colorful lineup of styles that varied from floral printed and embroidered ensembles, layered tulle dresses, to color blocked sets and free-flowing, jacquard dresses.
CREDIT: THEO WARGO/GETTY IMAGES
CREDIT: THEO WARGO/GETTY IMAGES
Altuzarra
“Supernatural and human, magical and real, the Fall Winter 2023 Collection takes us on an odyssey through a mythological landscape and represents the final chapter in a four-part series focused on ritual and myth"
-Joseph Altuzarra
CREDIT: JOHN LAMPARSKI/GETTY IMAGES
CREDIT: JOHN LAMPARSKI/GETTY IMAGES
CREDIT: JOHN LAMPARSKI/GETTY IMAGES
CREDIT: JOHN LAMPARSKI/GETTY IMAGES
Wiederhoeft
Fall/Winter Wiederhoeft show titled Eurydice exhibited hyper feminine styles from crystal beaded dresses, corseting and lacing, sheer and silk printed beaded slips, embroidered shirts and bridal, Demi-couture looks.
CREDIT: FERNANDA CALFAT/GETTY IMAGES
CREDIT: FERNANDA CALFAT/GETTY IMAGES
Tory Burch
Fall/Winter 2023 Tory Burch demonstrated “the tension of opposing materials: uber luxurious vs. tech-y, sumptuous vs. sheer, glossy vs. matte,”. A lot of the looks played with the idea of imperfection, by presenting seemingly broken accessories along impeccable looks.
CREDIT: SLAVEN VLASIC/GETTY IMAGES
CREDIT: SLAVEN VLASIC/GETTY IMAGES
That was it for our New York Fashion week highlights. Which one was your favorite show?
XOXO, Lori | Design Land
Britney Spears and Sam Asghari's Wedding details
On June 9th Britney Spears and Sam Asghari exchanged their wedding vows in an intimate ceremony in the couple's home in Thousand Oaks, California. A lot has happened for Britney since her 13 year-long conservatorship ended in 2021. Here is what we know about this iconic pop culture moment!
Photo: Kevin Ostajewski, Illustration: Versace
After 5 years together, Britney and Sam got engaged in September 2021 with Sam sealing the proposal with a 4-carat brilliant cut diamond solitaire by Roman Malayev, with the nickname “Lioness” engraved on the inside of the band. Fast forward less than a year later, the couple tied the knot with their choice of wedding bands matching the engagement ring for Britney and platinum bands for Sam.
Photo: People
The wedding was planned with the help and assistance of the celebrity event producer Jeffrey Best of Best Events. The color palette for the event included shades of blush, white, cream gold, all feminine, elegant with soft floral arrangements from Marks Garden. The wedding followed through its intended fairytale theme. The guest list included celebrity names like Selena Gomez, Madonna, Paris Hilton, Drew Barrymore, Carter Reum, Kathy Hilton and Donatella Versace.
Photo: Kevin Ostajewski
The bride wore an off the shoulder, custom Versace dress with a corseted bodice, side slit, pearl buttons on the back, with an almost 10 foot train and a classic white veil with satin-edged finish. The bridal look was complemented by fingerless tulle gloves and white satin pumps. Britney’s 62 carat jewelry, all from Stephanie Gottlieb included drop earrings with brown pear shaped stones, a diamond tennis bracelet and a heart shaped tennis necklace. Charlotte and Sofia Tilbury co-created Britney’s bridal makeup look, a natural glam that focused on emphasizing the bride’s brown eyes. Throughout the event Britney changed into three other reception looks including a black blazer mini dress, a red fringed dress and a two-toned outfit. Sam also wore a custom black tux by Versace and a navy one for the reception, perfectly complementing the bride.
Photo: Kevin Ostajewski
We are so happy for Britney and Sam and wishing the couple a wonderful new adventure together!
XOXO Lori
7 Brands supporting LGBTQIA+ Organizations this Pride Month
Happy Pride Month, dear Design Land readers! 🏳️🌈
We all know June as the “Rainbow Month”, so it’s no surprise to see fashion brands emerging from left and right in an eager endeavor to showcase their Pride collections. As we admire the marketing strategies behind PRIDE products, campaigns, and events, we want to share some brands that are giving back to organizations in support of the LGBTQIA+ community. Here are the Pride collections we have our eyes on. (Psst- they’re dropping this month!)
LEVI’S
Image from Levi’s Off The Cuff: CORINNE SMITH
This year, Levi’s shows their support for Pride month through a gender neutral, size inclusive collection, including a denim jackets, jeans, a corset, graphic shirts and tops, with some items including inspirational messages like "Live your truth" and "Love transforms", all featuring rainbow Levi's® tab. In addition to this collection, the brand will donate $100,000 to OutRight Action International, an organization providing LGBTIQ human rights research and documentation to activists, work on LGBTQIA+ advocacy and research, and share news, cultural media and advocacy of partners, activists and experts through the lens of LGBTQIA+ people. The collection was also photographed on social justice advocates from the LGBTQIA+ community. Check out Levi’s blog spotlighting activists: Off The Cuff
2. PUMA
Image Via PUMA: Pride Together Forever 2022 campaign. Photo: LaQuaan Dawson
Together Forever is PUMA’s Pride 2022 collection created with Cara Delevigne, featuring a collaboration with Carra Sykes, a queer artist that designed several original graphics and prints. The collection includes t-shirts, hoodies, shorts, leggings and bralettes, all silhouettes showing off the colorful graphics “meant to be worn with pride”. Aside from Cara Delevingne, the PUMA Pride 2022 campaign also includes Brinda Iyer, Matt Bernstein, Jalen Dominique, Torraine Futurum, and Yassa Almokhamad.
3. COS
Photography by Collier Schorr
“Love for All, A celebration of love without boundaries.” is Cos’ tagline for this Pride’s month collection and campaign. The collection is comprised of a limited edition T-shirt capsule of three styles, designed in collaboration with creators from within the LGBTQIA+ community; namely performance poet, model and trans-visibility campaigner Kai-Isaiah Jamal, artist and creative director Zipeng Zhu and musician and award-winning actor SOKO. 100% of the profits will be donated to The Trevor Project. with a minimum commitment of $50,000. Check out Cos Love for All campaign here!
4. CASETIFY
Image Via Casetify: Pride Collection
Casetify’s Pride collection features artists from the LGBTQIA+ community, original prints and a limited edition rainbow camera ring. For every purchase of a Pride Case, Casetify is donating $5 to The Christopher Street West Association, the official nonprofit of LA Pride.
5. UGG
Image Via UGG
“Feel Heard” is UGG’s 2022 Pride campaign, in collaboration with UGG ambassador network: Alok, Chloé Véro, Sarina Morales, Isa’ah, and couple Orren & Robert. UGG aims to create a safe space to discuss mental health and promote the many resources The Trevor Project offers to the LGBTQIA+ community. The collection is comprised of multicolored Pride slides and Fluff slides, as well as printed apparel and socks in Pride colors. Learn more about UGG’s campaign through their website here.
6. Adidas
Image Via Adidas: ADIDAS X KRIS ANDREW SMALL
This Pride month Adidas is collaborating with queer Australian artist, Kris Andrew Small, whose work aims to empower and support members of the LGBTQIA+ community and serve to bring visibility and recognition to the issues faced by the community. Through the 70s’s and 80’s inspired prints and graphics, Kris Andrew Small uplifts and educates, bringing awareness and acceptance to voices of the LGBTQIA+ community.
Adidas is continuing their partnerships with Athlete Ally and Stonewall UK. Athlete Ally aims to end homophobia and transphobia in sport, while Stonewall UK is committed to help create transformative change in the lives of LGBTQIA+ people across communities in the UK.
Find out more about this collaboration and Kris Andrew Small’s colorful work on Adidas’ website here, a full picture of this collection’s mission and emphasis on identity and celebration of queerness.
7. CHER X VERSACE
Images Via Cher and Versace
Cher X Versace for Pride 2022 is a limited capsule collection Versace is promoting this month in collaboration with Cher, hence Chersace! The collection includes a rainbow embellished Medusa t-shirt signed by Cher and Donatella Versace, a rainbow Medusa t-shirt, socks and a baseball hat, all featuring the rainbow recolored Versace logo. A portion of proceeds will go to Gender Spectrum, an organization that focuses on the health and well-being of gender- diverse children and teens.
Image Via Versace
If you are looking to donate this Pride month consider the organizations mentioned in this blog including: Trevor Project. PFLAG, True Colors United, OutRight International, Lambda Legal, Human Rights Campaign, It Gets Better Project.
VMAs Best Dressed 2021 - Design Land Picks
The VMAs are the one Music Awards event to follow if you are looking to find over-the-top red carpet looks. Like the previous VMAs red carpet events, last Sunday’s event at Brooklyn’s Barclays Center served numerous excessive and overelaborated fashion moments. Here are our top picks for the Best-Dressed Artists of VMAs 2021:
Olivia Rodrigo in a wrapped tulle Atelier Versace gown selected from Versace’s Spring 2001 Couture collection.
Doja Cat in Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
Halle Bailey in Mônot: A statement risqué floor-length white gown.
Normani in Patrycja Pagas and Djula jewelry: A two piece deconstructed outfit with an exaggerated oversized belt.
Kacey Musgraves in Valentino: A purple mini dress completed with a matching feather hat and red leather gloves.
Lil Nas X in Atelier Versace: A shimmering lavender two piece equipped with a long train.
Iann Dior in a Signature ombre purple suit.
Troye Sivan in Fendi: A two piece set with a cropped blazer from Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection.
Megan Fox in Mugler and Machine Gun Kelly in a sparkling red suit: Megan brings back the iconic naked dress on the red carpet, embellished with crystals, while MGK complements the couple’s moment with a bright red shimmering suit.
Avril Lavigne in Area, Christalea & Stuart Weitzman and Mod Sun: A two piece suit with heart cutout blazer in the spirit of Avril’s original punk style.
Kourtney Kardashian in Balmain and Travis Barker in Thom Browne: Kourtney’s look consisted of an all black leather corset halter neckline dress, while Travis opted for a studded black suit in coordination.
These are our top 13 VMAs Red Carpet looks. Do you agree with our choices and which one is your favorite?
XOXO Lori / Design Land NYC
Fall 2021 Couture Highlights
Hello Design Land readers,
Fall 2021 Couture Week is here and we cannot wait to show you our favorite looks. This Couture Season, like every previous one, tends to push the limits in creativity, demonstrate raw ideas come to life in conceptual designs and experiments with specific showcasing techniques.
Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli Maison has experienced a rebirth since Daniel Roseberry took the position as artistic director two years ago, constructing a clear vision that forever pays homage to Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy and conceptual artistry. The House’s Fall 2021 Couture collection includes surrealist recreations of golden flowers, a handcrafted jewelry bustier, embroidered vintage denim jeans, golden dove and ear pieces, padlock-shaped earrings, trompe l’œil lungs adorned with rhinestones and golden crafted facial features incorporated in solid jewelry. Schiaparelli Maison is synonymous with Couture, and each season Roseberry comes forward with another stunning collection that pushes limits of refined creativity.
COURTESY OF SCHIAPARELLI
COURTESY OF SCHIAPARELLI
COURTESY OF SCHIAPARELLI
Iris van Herpen
Iris van Herpen Fall Couture collection “Earthrise” is an ode to freedom. The concept of this season’s lineup is inspired by the launch of Apollo 8, the first spacecraft to witness the Earthrise from Moon’s horizon.
Three of the collection’s looks are a collaboration with the artist Rogan Brown, whose inspiration takes roots in the tradition of scientific illustration. Among the intricate dresses, Magnetosphere, Eclipse, Empyrean, Sphaera are only some of our favorites. Magnetosphere is created with Parley Ocean Plastic®️, sourced from upcycled marine debris in collaboration with Parley for the Oceans Parley.tv. The Eclipse dress and Sphaera dress are made out of hand-cut white spheres, varying in texture and lined up in color gradient, creating a layered illusion. The Empyrean gown is made of layers of relief sculptures that mimic the fabrics’ transition into plant, designed utilizing Parley Ocean Plastic®️ fabric.
Van Herpen collaborated with Domitille Kiger, the French female world-champion skydiver to showcase a new meaning of earthly freedom. For the first time, the experimental and intricate nature of Haute couture meets the extreme sport of skydiving, a push to test strengths in craftsmanship.
EMPYREAN, MAGNETOSPHERE, ECLIPSE, COURTESY OF IRIS VAN HERPEN
EARTHGAZE, BLUE MARBLE AND SPHAERA MUNDI DRESSES, COURTESY OF IRIS VAN HERPEN
AEROLOGY JUMPSUIT AND DRESS, COURTESY OF IRIS VAN HERPEN
MYTHOSPHERE, SPHAERA DRESSES, COURTESY OF IRIS VAN HERPEN
Armani Privé
“Shine” is the title of this season’s Couture collection, a direct reference to the much needed brightness.
As Giorgio Armani states:
“We have lived through very dark times, and now it seems like we can see some light. My collection is light, yet touching, because its inception comes from a feeling of rebirth.”
The collection’s most striking features are the brilliance of fabrics that appear mercurial and liquid, the multi-layered silk organza, satins and silks interwoven with ultra fine metallic thread. It is overall an energizing lineup, with a multitude of positive colors and embracing a joyful reality.
COURTESY OF ARMANI PRIVÉ
COURTESY OF ARMANI PRIVÉ
COURTESY OF ARMANI PRIVÉ
COURTESY OF ARMANI PRIVÉ
COURTESY OF ARMANI PRIVÉ
Ronald van der Kemp
The Mind Vaccine is RVDK Fall 2021 Couture collection. The lineup includes a handwoven backless metal chain vest, a mega bell bottom from upcycled denim leftovers, a gold umbrella covered with silk mesh and vintage lace snake detailing, an umbrella peplum jacket with mini-maxi skirt, a hand-painted silk velvet art gown with raised shoulder, and many more. Since last season’s molded eco felt corset, RDVK is constantly looking for creative ways to find circular solutions and upcycle fashion discards.
COURTESY OF RONALD VAN DER KEMP
COURTESY OF RONALD VAN DER KEMP
COURTESY OF RONALD VAN DER KEMP
COURTESY OF RONALD VAN DER KEMP
COURTESY OF RONALD VAN DER KEMP
Balenciaga
For the first time in the 53 years since Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his Couture House, Demna Gvasalia presented his first Balenciaga Couture collection. In this lineup, Gvasalia honored Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy, adding his streetwear influence and attitude to a well-tailored collection.
In Demna Gvasalia’s words regarding the revival of the couture house:
“Fifty-three years have passed since Cristóbal Balenciaga closed the doors of his house, largely due to the birth of ready-to-wear, which questioned the raison d'être for the concept of haute couture.
Over half a century later I see it as my creative obligation to the unique heritage of m. Balenciaga to bring the couture back to his house. It is the very foundation of this century-old maison.
Couture is the highest level of garment construction, that is not only relevant in today’s mass-productive industry, but even absolutely necessary for the survival and further evolution of modern fashion.
I invite you to discover and enoy this tribute to the legecay of Cristobal Balenciaga and my very personal vision of the essence of fashion”.
COURTESY OF BALENCIAGA
COURTESY OF BALENCIAGA
COURTESY OF BALENCIAGA
Azzaro
“Olivier Theyskens evokes the dream in an ode to the evening and incants the real to sublimate it further.”
In a sparkling collection of encrusted gowns, fluid lines, and structured looks, Azzaro creates a balance of opposites, brings both shadow and light, fluidity and structure, the excessive and moderation.
COURTESY OF AZZARO
COURTESY OF AZZARO
COURTESY OF AZZARO
Fendi
“A poetic transfiguration of the past within the present day”
Marking Kim Jones’ second couture show, Fendi Fall 2021 Couture collection brings numerous aspects of Rome together, starting with the architectural influence, to the cobblestoned pavements, marble ornaments and multicolored mosaics. Each outfit is an intricate labor with a singular focus, all finalized with mother-of-pearl embellishment, fur mosaic work and sculptural statement accessories.
As stated by Fendi’s official IG page, this collection is “celebrating the eternal beauty of Rome. A contemporary connection between eras, cultures and aesthetics.”
COURTESY OF FENDI
COURTESY OF FENDI
COURTESY OF FENDI
COURTESY OF FENDI
COURTESY OF FENDI
COURTESY OF FENDI
Chanel
This Season’s Chanel Couture show took place in the Palais Galliera, City of Paris Fashion Museum and was inspired by movements of French Painting. The lineup included tailored blazers, waiscoats and tweed jackets, a round-shouldered skirt suit in black tweed, a blouse with trompe-l’oeil ribbon motif embellishment, a draped satin dress with black bows, a multi-coloured Lesage tweed jacket and trapeze skirt framed with embroidery, and a V-waist ball skirt in silk Mikado. Many of the looks take direct inspiration from Impressionist paintings and the method of Pointillism.
COURTESY OF CHANEL
COURTESY OF CHANEL
Giambattista Valli
“An evasive nocturnal walk, with a slight taste for danger in search of the pleasure of reliving these emotions. A sense of unknown pervades one’s walk in the Ville Lumière.
Pieces of present, past and future memories emerge. Its glares, its glamour made up of nights filled with lights reflected on wet asphalt, its promiscuity, its eclectic and voyeuristic aesthetic à la Ryan Murphy.”
Giambattista Valli Fall 2021 Couture Show focuses on a sense of joie de vivre, making for a joyful occasion with signature tulle cloud dresses, chiffon gowns, sequined column dresses and tailored trouser suits. The collection manifests a certain freedom of movement and living in the moment.
COURTESY OF GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
COURTESY OF GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
COURTESY OF GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
COURTESY OF GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Which Fall 2021 Couture collection is your favorite? We love each and every one of them for their expressiveness and overindulgence.
XOXO Lori / Design Land NYC
Oscars 2021 Best Dressed
Hello Design Land readers,
We hope your weekend was peaceful and relaxing.
Last Sunday night on April 25, we witnessed the 93rd Oscars award ceremony take place at the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles, California. Despite the ongoing pandemic, this year’s award ceremony was held in person and the stars served several stunning glamorous looks on the red carpet. Gowns styled and worn for this event brought each their individual magic, varying from golden yellow shimmering fabrics, beaded and encrusted silver tones, to vibrant red and empowering feminine silhouettes. We are here to deliver our Best Dressed highlights!
Zendaya in Valentino
Zendaya in Valentino
Andra Day in Vera Wang
Carey Mulligan in Valentino
Amanda Seyfried in Armani Privé
Angela Bassett in Alberta Ferretti
Olivia Colman in Dior Haute Couture
Celeste in Gucci
Youn Yuh-jung in Marmar Halim and Han Ye-ri in Louis Vuitton
Sophia Nahli Allison in Valentino
Alan Kim in Thom Browne and Vicky Kim
Marlee Matlin
Margot Robbie in Chanel Haute Couture
Regina King in Louis Vuitton
Riz Ahmed in Prada and Fatima Farheen Mirza in Valentino
Viola Davis in Alexander McQueen
H.E.R. in Dundas
Chloé Zhao: winner of the best-director Oscar for Nomadland
Aside from observing and appreciating all the looks for this year’s Oscars, we also love to see women make history! Chloé Zhao is the winner of best-director Oscar for Nomadland, making Zhao the first woman of color and only the second woman in history to win this award.
Did you watch the Oscar award ceremony this year? At Design Land NYC, our favorite part consists of following all of the Stars’ red carpet looks, but we now have an ever growing list of films to watch. Tell us in your comments below what did you think of this year’s Oscars award.
Sending lots of joy,
Design Land NYC / Lori
Halle Berry in Dolce + Gabbana
Our Picks for Best Looks - Grammys 2021
The Grammys are always a display of creative extravaganza when it comes to the Red Carpet and artists’ performance, and our expectations for the artists’ looks are excessively high. Grammys 2021 took place last Sunday and we are impressed with the quality of character that each artist showcased through their red carpet outfit choices! From Harry Styles and his Gucci leather suit and feather boa, to Dua Lipa’s Versace sparkly encrusted dress, to Cynthia Erivo’s radiant Nicolas Ghesquière column gown, here are our picks for Best Looks Grammys 2021!
Dua Lipa in Versace and BVLGARI jewelry
Dua Lipa in Versace
Jhene Aiko in Monsoori and Sydney Evan jewelry
Taylor Swift in Oscar de la Renta and Christian Louboutin shoes
Mickey Guyton in Valentino
Chloe Bailey in Louis Vuitton and Tiffany & Co. jewelry
Halle Bailey in Louis Vuitton and Tiffany & Co. jewelry
Billie Eilish in Gucci
Cynthia Erivo in Louis Vuitton and Tiffany & Co. jewelry
Bad Bunny in Burberry
Harry Styles in Gucci
Beyoncé in Schiaparelli
What did you think of our top picks for Best Grammys looks? We especially loved following the artist’s live performance and award ceremony! This year’s event marked a new record: Beyoncé is officially the woman with most Grammy wins of all time after having won her 28th Grammy this year. Judging from the looks on the red carpet, we can safely say that this year, designers, stylists and artists are back in sync together.
XOXO Lori / Design Land NYC
Our Picks For Best Looks
London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2021 Highlights
Hi everyone,
How has February been treating you? We hope you are keeping yourself warm, working toward your goals and enjoying life as it comes. As London fashion week came to an end, we are happy to offer you a brief distraction from your daily life and a glimpse into the highlights of Fall/Winter 2021 collections.
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection is a play between the soft and edgy, a coexistence of the feminine and masculine. Black leather biker jackets over frilly skirts, jackets and dresses with tactile satin roses, Edwardian balloon sleeves, tailored black leather jackets to emphasize waistline, ivory flowers cascading over pink tulle ballet skirts, are all elements fabricating this fantasy of a rebellious ballerina character. This season’s collection retains the soft femininity that characterizes Rocha’s work, with an additional dose of resiliency and sense of experimentation, all ornated with faux natural pearls, porcelain earrings and hand-painted roses.
"Embroidered tulles, Hand-painted flowers on pearls. Porcelain cameos, encased in gold. The Three Graces. Satin, leather, tulle."
Erdem
Erdem’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection is constructed to represent several stages of a dancer’s wardrobe, from rehearsal to performance. The conception of this idea originates from Erdem Moralioglu’s memorable experience of designing costumes in 2018 at the Royal Opera House, translating the excitement of observing ballerinas practicing in their transitional outfits from rehearsals to performance. Illustrating the ballerina’s everyday practice clothing and interlacing it with their embellished stage costumes, the lineup served a variety of feminine skirts, opera gowns, tailored jackets thrown over embellished, feathered skirts. Tops encrusted with jewels and ribbed knitwear, ballet slippers transforming into stilted platforms, and Swan Lake headpieces, made for an interesting fusion of in-between stages of undressing.
Art School
Eden Loweth’s Fall/ Winter collection carries a strong message of resistance, hope and strength to London’s queer communities. Through his work, Loweth aims to give a voice to marginalized communities, offer a safe space for LGBTQ+ identities to be seen, free of prejudice. This season’s collection was unique and completely focused on inclusivity, presenting garments easy to wear for all bodies and genders. The show featured two nonbinary contestants from Season 2 of RuPaul's Drag Race UK : Bimini Bon-Boulash and A'Whora, Loweth’s close friends, and members of London Trans + Pride. The prevailing theme in this collection stands that of Inclusion and Unity, all reflected in the coats and leather pieces, linen smock dresses and bias cut pieces, designed for different body types.
Matty Bovan
Matty Bovan’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection is an explosion of color, paint, exaggerated shapes, volume, interpreted through psychedelic effects of intentional blurring and smearing. With every outfit encrusted in crystals, splashes of color and light, to say that this collection is experimenting with the nontraditional of ready to wear would be an understatement. This season, Bovan labelled this collection Odyssey, referencing the theme and source of inspiration. All this, revealed in the backdrop of this presentation and the sound effects throughout the video, unfolds in the visuals and sounds of struggle through heavy waves out in the sea, shipwreck and survival.
Bovan confesses that this is a personal theme: “I’ve always been afraid of the sea. I suppose it’s that fear of isolation”
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood Fall/Winter 2021 line-up was mostly made of recycled, previously used materials as a statement to reduce the impact fabric waste does to the environment. Fabrics used encompass a variety of wool, tartans, forest positive viscose, organic silk, along with a newly sourced recycled denim.
The collection featured a print of Daphnis and Chloe, a 1743 painting by by French Rococo painter François Boucher, becoming the main print for this season. The collection brought a pastoral mood, in a combination of clashing colors, herringbones, stripes, ginghams and King of Wales Check throughout various items of denim, suits, shirts, corsets and dresses. As always, the lineup carried over Westwood’s signature style of unruled draping and balanced chaos.
The focus of this season stays in the constantly improving efforts to become sustainable, as stated on Westwood’s social media posts on this collection:
We continually challenge ourselves to make our collections with greater care and contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry. We are proud to announce that for Autumn-Winter 2021/22 over 90% of our main-line collection is made from materials that have a reduced impact on our environment.
Molly Goddard
Goddard’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection brings back tulle skirts and voluminous shapes, in a clash of textures, bright colors, metallics and patterns. Strategically large layered skirts reveal a sense of movement. While much of the designs are overly playful, many garments remain wearable and casual, including Fair Isle sweaters for men and women, tartan coats, tailored suits and taffeta dresses layered with casual denim. A joyful color palette of warm red, pink and bright orange, is balanced by charcoal grey, mint, and uplifting blue.
Duro Olowu
Duro Olowu’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection is comprised of various exhilarating prints and evokes an inspired outlook of a happier time. Garments manifest a union and blend of reinvented colorful florals, geometrical patterns, python prints in green, fuchsia, orange, turquoise. As stated on Olowu’s Instagram posts of these spectacularly cheerful silk chiffon dresses and swing coats:
Inspired by the work of the African American painter Barkley L. Hendricks and the French painter Édouard Vuillard. The collection is a homage to the wonderful palettes and pattern laden compositions in the paintings of these two amazing artists from different eras and continents.
It is also an ode to the power of style as an inspiring and uplifting weapon of optimism in these uncertain times.
Emilia Wickstead
Emilia Wickstead’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection, represents the idea of looking into a woman’s life. The concept was inspired by three films: Teorema (1968) by Pier Paolo Pasolini, I Am Love (2009) by Luca Guadagnino, and Rear Window (1954) by Alfred Hitchcock. Walking further away from casual ready to wear, and into a reinvention of Eveningwear, this collection featured tailored suiting in wool gabardine, pencil skirted dress, off-the shoulder charcoal wool dress, soft tailored flanella, and draped fabrics that serve as outerwear to offer comfort and a soft edge against the structured garments underneath.
What do you think of our Highlighted moments from London’s Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2021? At Design Land NYC, we are loving the rush of creativity, the progress made towards sustainability in fashion, the bright uplifting colors and prints in place and all the amazing work that designer’s are doing in response to the challenges encountered in the past year. We are following the next fashion shows closely and cannot wait to report the next recap!
Sending joy,
Lori / Design Land NYC
Everything you need to know about Spring 2021 Haute Couture Week
Let’s talk Couture! In case you have missed the latest Virtual Fashion Shows for Spring 2021 Haute Couture, we are here to bring you the Highlights and keep you updated on the latest runway looks! Couture week has just come to an end, and despite having to present virtually to no physical audience, Couture Houses have delivered some stunning looks this year that have brought attention back to the Fashion World.
Schiaparelli
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Starting with a stunning and rather surprising Spring 2021 Couture Presentation from Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry has managed to execute an ideal comeback for the House of Schiaparelli. Only recently, last week during the Presidential Inauguration we saw the brand dress Lady Gaga in an unforgettable black fitted jacked, a red silk ball skirt and a striking golden dove brooch to sing the National Anthem. Designer and Creative Director Daniel Roseberry, has been playing out of the box to pull the brand out of its past stagnancy and surely, he does not disappoint. Vogue reports that Roseberry feels a shift of mentality, a focus and confidence that comes from his relationship to his process and the atelier.
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“It isn’t about being too perfect for me, but it is about shutting the moment down.”
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We certainly see this shift in its most glorious form in the latest Couture collection, which contains elements of homage to Elsa Schiaparelli and presents the opposite of the extra feminine nature of expected Couture garments. Through structured muscular bustiers, accentuated abs and biceps, a dress knitted with more than 200,000 Swarovski crystals, folded voluminous sleeves and the dazzling golden bijoux, this Spring Couture collection brings back the powerful female heroine.
Christian Dior
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Ah, Christian Dior! The House never disappoints in delivering artistry through their Couture shows. This year, Dior presented the collection through a carefully curated film and accompanying series of photographs. The inspiration of Maria Grazia Chiuri comes as a consequence of the chaotic year of 2020, and lies in the hope that arises from negotiating with fate. Tarot cards come to life in this film, such a theme stemming from several stories. Christian Dior himself believed in the power of Tarot and their ability to see into the future and first sought out the help of signs when his sister disappeared.
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This is Chiuri’s interpretation:
“We decided to film a story about this girl who goes inside a castle. It’s a labyrinth which represents an interior trip. When she meets each of the tarot figures, she has to reach a decision about her life. And on the other hand, she meets aspects of her own personality and learns not to be scared of the future.”
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The collection includes period Renaissance inspired pieces, including high waisted corsets, brocade fabrics and a balance of feminine and masculine energy. The merge of the mystique, magic and spirituality are incarnated in the embroidered fabrics, golden details and mysterious allure that prevails throughout the collection.
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Giambattista Valli
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Volume and more volume! There is no better term to describe the signature style of Giambattista Valli.
“Sometimes I look at other couture houses and I see a lot of decoration. Couture is not about decoration. Couture is about volumes,” he asserted. “When you sketch ready-to-wear, you have to be a designer. When you create haute couture, you have to be a sculptor. It’s the difference between building a space and decorating it.”
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Spring Couture 2021 brings another series of extravagantly voluminous gowns, catered to clients that seek drama and flair! The presentation took place in Seville, a place where the Spanish and Islamic cultures melt together and create a new third culture, as a symbolism about the world coming together into a global culture.
Iris van Herpen
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For this Couture collection, Iris van Herpen collaborated with Parley for the Ocens to utilize Ocean Plastic® fabric made from upcycled marine debris. The Dutch designer claims that the quality of manmade, natural and sustainable materials has reached an even point, and the selection of sustainable materials, above all, remains a change of mindset. The inspiration for this year’s gowns and fabric selections comes from a book by Merlin Sheldrake titled “Entangled Life” which focuses on the way fungi maintain their life systems on Earth. We can see this inspiration reflected in silhouettes and details, with gill-like pleating and mycelium lace, some of which was produced on a collaboration with an artist that grew lace patterns from wood.
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This past year for Iris van Herpen has been about maintaining communication in a time of isolation and separation. The system that fungi create to communicate in a “wood wide web” has been particularly fascinating, providing a context for this couture collection to fit right into our timeline.
Viktor & Rolf
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Viktor and Rolf Spring 2021 Couture collection comes as something fun and lighthearted! The designer duo decided that after a grim year they should offer some escapism for their audience and clientele, something carrying a lot of energy and power! For this reason, the collection appears more youthful, and carries on a theme of upcycling and DIY, which is unusual for a couture show, but also what sets this collection apart from others! A clash of colors and textures pulls together two piece outfits, each of which releases exhilarating energy!
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Chanel
Chanel Spring 2021 Couture show has transformed the Grand Palais into a country wedding in the South of France, decorated with floral arches and a bright atmosphere of celebration. As always, Chanel presents outfits that include the brand’s iconic boucle fabrics into cardigan jackets and vests, now more encrusted and embroidered than ever. Other garments are hand-painted and made from custom lace, hems finished with re-embroidered blossoms.
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Creative director Virginie Viard describes this year’s couture collection as a “bohemian style wedding, a family celebration in a village including the mother, the aunt, and the 15-year-old girl dressing up for the first time”. The silhouettes bring both feminine and masculine energies, by including layers of petticoats for the most voluminous gowns and skirts, paired with button-ups and more traditional menswear.
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Armani Privé
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Armani Privé Spring 2021 Couture show was set for the first time at Palazzo Orsini in Milano in front of no audience. The collection showcased a variety of feminine gowns, elaborately embroidered sheer fabrics, encrusted florals, translucent layers of tulle and sequined details, in a fresh color palette of cool mint, soft taupe, and navy.
In Armani’s words:
“Couture is rooted in fashion history. It represents the pinnacle of creativity and sartorial skill, but is a world available only to very few. Today, through the democracy of the Internet, we are able to offer a front row seat to everyone.”
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Valentino
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Yet another Couture show with no audience, this Valentino Spring 2021 collection served to honor the intricate and irreplaceable nature of couture as a process and valuable legacy of the brand. Couture celebrates the human, the mind that conceives and the hand that creates and gives value, were the words of the Designer. He called the looks Temporal, as they will survive time and outlive trends to come.
"Through a work process that sits above time, they produce timeless objects moulded on the individual."
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This year’s Valentino looks were uplifting in their color palette and simply illuminating. The collection is inspired and constructed only with the surface and garment quality in mind, as opposed to a more intangible concept. When compared to past collections, this lineup has flipped the ratio of evening-wear to day-wear, making the pieces much more wearable and versatile.
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Fendi
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Fendi Spring 2021 Couture, also marked Kim Jones’ debut collection, turning this into an important event! The show attracted a lot of attention when they recruited some of the most well-known models in the industry; Naomi Campell, Kate Moss, Cara Delevigne, Bella Hadid Demi Moore, and Adwoa Aboah.
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The collection was visibly inspired by Virginia Woolf’s time-traveling, gender-blurring novel Orlando and the visual language of Bernini’s Marbles. The lineup also served as a celebration of the legacy for Fend;, incorporating pieces of significant elements of the brand, and family; emphasizing the idea of unity and collective energy.
In his notes for the show, Kim Jones pointed out as follows:
"Fendi represents artisanal quality of the highest order, and it is all about family. It is in its third generation with a Fendi at its helm, and I am guest starring while bringing in the fourth. Here, I am surrounded by strong, powerful women who I love and respect, and want to bring their energy into what I do."
This concludes our Report for Spring 2021 Couture Week, and we are inspired by the artistry and craftsmanship showcased this past week! Which show was your favorite this Couture Season?
Sending joy and creative stimuli your way,
XOXO Lori / Design Land NYC