Let’s talk Couture! In case you have missed the latest Virtual Fashion Shows for Spring 2021 Haute Couture, we are here to bring you the Highlights and keep you updated on the latest runway looks!  Couture week has just come to an end, and despite having to present virtually to no physical audience, Couture Houses have delivered some stunning looks this year that have brought attention back to the Fashion World.

Schiaparelli

Starting with a stunning and rather surprising Spring 2021 Couture Presentation from Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry has managed to execute an ideal comeback for the House of Schiaparelli. Only recently, last week during the Presidential Inauguration we saw the brand dress Lady Gaga in an unforgettable black fitted jacked, a red silk ball skirt and a striking golden dove brooch to sing the National Anthem. Designer and Creative Director Daniel Roseberry, has been playing out of the box to pull the brand out of its past stagnancy and surely, he does not disappoint. Vogue reports that Roseberry feels a shift of mentality, a focus and confidence that comes from his relationship to his process and the atelier. 

“It isn’t about being too perfect for me, but it is about shutting the moment down.”

We certainly see this shift in its most glorious form in the latest Couture collection, which contains elements of homage to Elsa Schiaparelli and presents the opposite of the extra feminine nature of expected Couture garments. Through structured muscular bustiers, accentuated abs and biceps, a dress knitted with more than 200,000 Swarovski crystals, folded voluminous sleeves and the dazzling golden bijoux, this Spring Couture collection brings back the powerful female heroine.

Christian Dior

Ah, Christian Dior! The House never disappoints in delivering artistry through their Couture shows. This year, Dior presented the collection through a carefully curated film and accompanying series of photographs. The inspiration of Maria Grazia Chiuri comes as a consequence of the chaotic year of 2020, and lies in the hope that arises from negotiating with fate. Tarot cards come to life in this film, such a theme stemming from several stories. Christian Dior himself believed in the power of Tarot and their ability to see into the future and first sought out the help of signs when his sister disappeared. 

This is Chiuri’s interpretation: 

“We decided to film a story about this girl who goes inside a castle. It’s a labyrinth which represents an interior trip. When she meets each of the tarot figures, she has to reach a decision about her life. And on the other hand, she meets aspects of her own personality and learns not to be scared of the future.”

The collection includes period Renaissance inspired pieces, including high waisted corsets, brocade fabrics and a balance of feminine and masculine energy. The merge of the mystique, magic and spirituality are incarnated in the embroidered fabrics, golden details and mysterious allure that prevails throughout the collection. 

Giambattista Valli

Volume and more volume! There is no better term to describe the signature style of Giambattista Valli. 

 “Sometimes I look at other couture houses and I see a lot of decoration. Couture is not about decoration. Couture is about volumes,” he asserted. “When you sketch ready-to-wear, you have to be a designer. When you create haute couture, you have to be a sculptor. It’s the difference between building a space and decorating it.” 

Spring Couture 2021 brings another series of extravagantly voluminous gowns, catered to clients that seek drama and flair! The presentation took place in Seville, a place where the Spanish and Islamic cultures melt together and create a new third culture, as a symbolism about the world coming together into a global culture. 

 Iris van Herpen

For this Couture collection, Iris van Herpen collaborated with Parley for the Ocens to utilize Ocean Plastic® fabric made from upcycled marine debris. The Dutch designer claims that the quality of manmade, natural and sustainable materials has reached an even point, and the selection of sustainable materials, above all, remains a change of mindset. The inspiration for this year’s gowns and fabric selections comes from a book by Merlin Sheldrake titled “Entangled Life” which focuses on the way fungi maintain their life systems on Earth. We can see this inspiration reflected in silhouettes and details, with gill-like pleating and mycelium lace, some of which was produced on a collaboration with an artist that grew lace patterns from wood. 

This past year for Iris van Herpen has been about maintaining communication in a time of isolation and separation. The system that fungi create to communicate in a “wood wide web” has been particularly fascinating, providing a context for this couture collection to fit right into our timeline. 

Viktor & Rolf 

Viktor and Rolf Spring 2021 Couture collection comes as something fun and lighthearted! The designer duo decided that after a grim year they should offer some escapism for their audience and clientele, something carrying a lot of energy and power! For this reason, the collection appears more youthful, and carries on a theme of upcycling and DIY, which is unusual for a couture show, but also what sets this collection apart from others! A clash of colors and textures pulls together two piece outfits, each of which releases exhilarating energy! 

Chanel

Chanel Spring 2021 Couture show has transformed the Grand Palais into a country wedding in the South of France, decorated with floral arches and a bright atmosphere of celebration. As always, Chanel presents outfits that include the brand’s iconic boucle fabrics into cardigan jackets and vests, now more encrusted and embroidered than ever. Other garments are hand-painted and made from custom lace, hems finished with re-embroidered blossoms.  

Creative director Virginie Viard describes this year’s couture collection as a “bohemian style wedding, a family celebration in a village including the mother, the aunt, and the 15-year-old girl dressing up for the first time”. The silhouettes bring both feminine and masculine energies, by including layers of petticoats for the most voluminous gowns and skirts, paired with button-ups and more traditional menswear. 

Armani Privé

Armani Privé Spring 2021 Couture show was set for the first time at Palazzo Orsini in Milano in front of no audience. The collection showcased a variety of feminine gowns, elaborately embroidered sheer fabrics, encrusted florals, translucent layers of tulle and sequined details, in a fresh color palette of cool mint, soft taupe, and navy. 

In Armani’s words: 

“Couture is rooted in fashion history. It represents the pinnacle of creativity and sartorial skill, but is a world available only to very few. Today, through the democracy of the Internet, we are able to offer a front row seat to everyone.”

Valentino

Yet another Couture show with no audience, this Valentino Spring 2021 collection served to honor the intricate and irreplaceable nature of couture as a process and valuable legacy of the brand. Couture celebrates the human, the mind that conceives and the hand that creates and gives value, were the words of the Designer. He called the looks Temporal, as they will survive time and outlive trends to come.

"Through a work process that sits above time, they produce timeless objects moulded on the individual." 

This year’s Valentino looks were uplifting in their color palette and simply illuminating. The collection is inspired and constructed only with the surface and garment quality in mind, as opposed to a more intangible concept. When compared to past collections, this lineup has flipped the ratio of evening-wear to day-wear, making the pieces much more wearable and versatile.

Fendi  

Fendi Spring 2021 Couture, also marked Kim Jones’ debut collection, turning this into an important event! The show attracted a lot of attention when they recruited some of the most well-known models in the industry; Naomi Campell, Kate Moss, Cara Delevigne, Bella Hadid Demi Moore, and Adwoa Aboah. 

The collection was visibly inspired by Virginia Woolf’s time-traveling, gender-blurring novel Orlando and the visual language of Bernini’s Marbles. The lineup also served as a celebration of the legacy for Fend;, incorporating pieces of significant elements of the brand, and family; emphasizing the idea of unity and collective energy. 

In his notes for the show, Kim Jones pointed out as follows:

 "Fendi represents artisanal quality of the highest order, and it is all about family. It is in its third generation with a Fendi at its helm, and I am guest starring while bringing in the fourth. Here, I am surrounded by strong, powerful women who I love and respect, and want to bring their energy into what I do."

This concludes our Report for Spring 2021 Couture Week, and we are inspired by the artistry and craftsmanship showcased this past week! Which show was your favorite this Couture Season?

Sending joy and creative stimuli your way,

XOXO Lori / Design Land NYC